Throwback Thursday

Is this a copyright violation? I don’t think I care today.

A couple of days ago I wrote about this song in this post. This song changed my musical life as I left “popular” music behind and started listening to jazz.

This was one of a bunch of 45s someone had left behind at my father’s gas station. After a few weeks when no one came to claim them my then brother-in-law, who was working for my father at the time, brought them to me. Most of the records were of no interest to me and I’m not sure why I decided to listen to this one, but I’m glad I did.

The album on which this was the title song (you can see the album is misspelled as “Grove Drops” here but is correctly spelled on the other side) was released in 1970. Given the song number I am fairly sure this was the “B” side. What was the “A” side? “By The Time I Get To Phoenix”

In 2004 Jimmy Smith was honored as a Jazz Master by the National Endowment for the Arts, which is the highest honor any American jazz musician can receive. Sadly, he died the following year.

Given this is a vinyl record from the early 1970s I think it qualifies as a Throwback. It is also probably the most important song in my life. Once again, fate and luck play a role in life outcomes.


Michelle Christensen, in charge of the exterior design for the new generation Acura NSX, said that the 1967 Chevelle is her favorite car. Since I am a fan of the car as well, let’s have a look at one:

From a picture of a 1967 Chevelle. It is very difficult, especially in a quick internet search, to find a photo of one of these where the car has not been “slammed” to the ground and/or doesn’t have giant clown wheels. Have I ever mentioned that I despise that look? BALANCE is the key to beauty, in my opinion. A car with a 115-inch wheelbase and 197-inch length, the Chevelle’s dimensions, doesn’t need 22-inch wheels. I’ve seen builds where the wheels are so large that the tops of the fenders have to be cut open so the wheels can turn. What’s the point?

The C2 Corvette had a 98-inch wheelbase and looked tremendous with its stock 15-inch wheels. I’ve seen C2 builds with 22-inch wheels. They look hideous in my opinion. Yes, beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but a lot of custom builds make my eyes hurt. My restomod C2, whenever it is complete, will have wheels slightly larger than stock, maybe 17 inches in the front and 18 in the rear, but that’s more about function than form as the car will need larger tires so it can put its 550-600 HP down on the ground.

OK, what do you think about the slammed/giant wheel look? A lot of people must like it because a lot of cars are built that way.






12 thoughts on “Throwback Thursday

  1. Giant wheels and the slammed look distort the generally clean lines of a classic car. A slammed car or truck would not be able to get up my steep driveway and would bottom out on the horrible condition of the roads in Pima County and elsewhere. It is a car, not a piece of art. If you want a piece of art park it at an art museum. Your C2 restomod is a car I could like a lot even though it is that “other” brand.


    1. Thanks again, Philip. Everyone is entitled to their opinion, which means no one has to blindly follow a trend if they don’t really like it.


  2. My sister and her ex-husband owned a 1967 with the 396 big block, blue in color which they had bought new.


    1. Thanks, 56packardman. What do you think of the long-time trend (that perhaps only exists in my head) that US car makers bring out a car and then inevitably make it bigger and bulkier through time? The minimalist axiom of “Less Is More” should apply at least some of the time. no?


  3. I love what began as the “Pro-Touring” look which now has evolved to include restomds. 17″ wheels have been tested and proven to provide the best overall/all-around performance enhancement. But if building a 1000+ HP restomod, you do need the rubber to meet the road unless all you want is tire smoke.

    My biggest gripe with restomod builders is many take a classic vehicle to cut up and modify. Why not use that 6-banger grocery getter instead? Why does some arse like Gas Monkey cut up a classic 440 magnum challenger to stuff in a late model hemi, just because? That is blasphemy to me! Use a hulk, a non-collectible model and build the heck outta it and leave the collectibles alone.

    Back to question at hand, as you said to each their own, but there is something to be said for a car done the right way and set-up for corners as well as the straight line. Too large (fat) a rear wheel will tend to directionalize a vehicle (IE, a straight line versus cornering) so one must seek a proper balance unless all they are going for is the steamroller look. Personally, 18’s up front and 20’s out back is a righteous set-up and looks bad-ass without being overkill. If I build another restomod it would be matte paint with gloss black/or other color, stripe(s), gloss black wheels (18×20 as mentioned) done by a custom CNC machine of my choosing, an industrial interior with tremec 6 speed. Since it would more than likely be an E-body Mopar, something like a 471 hemi (bored and stroked 426) with injection and paxton blower might round it out nicely.


    1. Thanks for the comments, Steve. Keep ’em coming! In a related vein, if someone wants to maintain a numbers-matching car as an investment vehicle that’s their prerogative. For me, though, a car is to be driven even if it’s fewer than 5,000 miles a year. I also think the explosion of interest in car auctions has distorted what people think their cars are worth.

      I agree that a car should balance cornering and acceleration. Those cars with the giant blowers sticking through the hood and skinny front wheels/tires, no thanks. What restomods have you built? I, and other readers, would very much like to read about them.


      1. Ah, forgive me if incorrect, but you might be mistaking the blower types. A paxton (or centrifugal) supercharger is belt driven and bolts under the hood to the front of the engine, much like an oversized alternator. Usually runs about 8-10 psi of boost for the street which gives an added 125-175 horses depending on pulley size and blow-off spring values. It forces air into a carb which is a bit inefficient.

        A roots type blower, IE, one that sticks on top of the engine through the hood (Blower Drive Service, Kenne-Belle) uses twin-counter-rotational scroll-type “screws” to compress and force the air directly into the manifold. Much more efficient and allows much more tunability.

        Have you ever driven a big block cammer motor topped with a 671 or 871 blower using twin demon carbs? (I would mention the 1171 or mack-daddy 1471 but they were insanity and led to motor grenades)If not, try it sometime….it will alleviate any sight concerns turning right with that monster puffer snorting and snarling. Had a cammed 396 ’55 chevy with a 671, demons carbs, rock crusher 4 speed and the lope of the cam would chirp the tires at idle with every revolution! Never needed to hit the go pedal, people were awed by the sound and sight of it lurching ahead at low rpms….or maybe it was the rusted body and primer paint job….LOL.


      2. Whichever blower sticks through the hood is the one I don’t like. Your car experience dwarfs mine. We would all like to hear about your builds, your experiences, etc. Thanks for reading and commenting.


      3. I don’t have any problem with “forced” induction, per se. Remember, I owned a twin-turbo BMW Z4 for 29 months.


  4. here’s a Saturday present….try not to get overly excited with the video at the bottom of the page! haha As one says, “you cannot build (insert your choice here) without a solid foundation”…..I highly recommend basing your restomod on this, perhaps one of the preeminent frame builders (along with Chris Allston) around. Enjoy….


    1. Thanks again, Steve. Of course, almost everyone is aware of Art Morrison and his chassis builds. I am probably going to use a “local” builder who has much experience putting chassis compatible with C7 suspension and brakes underneath a C2 body. Oddly, they don’t use a Ford 9-bolt rear, but a Viper differential. My only choice on the differential is the gearing. I will not use something super aggressive starting with a “4” because I don’t want to be at the gas station all the time.


Comments are closed.